We set off after a wonderful Sunday together with the family. One of the primary things that we wanted to maintain in our early retirement was time with our family. We never wanted to disappear as a couple into the sunset with no regard for the people that we love. Getting together when we are home and spending time together over a nice meal is one of life’s pleasures that we are never going to neglect, despite our constant yearning to be out and about on our adventures.
Fate is a wonderful thing, and setting off later on a Sunday evening was an absolute blessing. The motorway gods were with us as we sailed north with ease on empty roads. Once we had got beyond Glasgow, we always feel that we are getting to the wild places. We have driven the shores of Loch Lomond so many times, predominately in wet, windy and pitch black conditions and this time was no exception! This part of the drive is a challenge on the single track lakeside road, but there is no avoiding it. We targeted Kilchurn Castle as a stop for the night- it was close to the ferry at Oban, but more importantly is a beautiful place to wake up to and the sunrise at the ruined castle can be pretty spectacular. We pulled up in the dark and the rain, not knowing what the morning would hold, but within 10 minutes we were set up for the night and comfortably under a warm duvet in our familiar bed.
It is fair to say at the point of official sunrise, we were rather underwhelmed with a rather grey start to the day, but as is often the case in Scotland, things quickly changed for the better and we were soon quickly grabbing our camera gear and rushing off to the lakeside castle. What greeted us was a beautiful scene of soft pink skies, silhouetted ancient ruins and highland coo’s- guess what got the most camera attention? After far too long wandering between the very calm coo’s, we packed up and headed off for an explore of Oban before a our lunchtime ferry crossing to Mull.
We didn’t get very far before the light conditions and the stunning views tempted us to stop for more photography. We had driven past St Connan's Kirk a number of times before, but now without the time pressures to keep moving, we stopped for an explore of the lakeside- hoping to included the church in our landscape shots. This proved almost impossible, but an open door did encourage us to have a little peek inside- and what a church. It was very different to anything we had experienced before. Huge windows captured the natural beauty from outside and pulled it into the church.
The space was grand but not overly decorated- huge granite pillars supporting the ancient wooden roof. Looking closer, it had clearly labelled chairs for the local Lairds of the clans, with the space having an almost parliamentary feel. It was just beautiful and the pictures not doing it justice- but they will help with our memories of this special place.
Once we got to Oban, we immediately knew that we had made the right decision to head for an island on this trip when we could smell the sea air. Departing for any Scottish island is a special feeling…a feeling of setting off for a truly wild place and a place of adventure. We had a wander around town, filled up with Diesel and had the last obligatory Witherspoon’s breakfast for a good few days before boarding the very modest ferry (compared to our last cross channel affair!). The crossing was fab, but quite windy and we soon found ourselves in the tiny “port” of Craignure. Not really a port, but more a jetty onto a road that you either turn North or South onto. I guess as a port it must be particularly proud of its carpark which is the only other port like feature alongside the jetty!
We knew that the weather Gods were not with us for the first couple of days, but we set off for Tobermory regardless in hope that we may get a window of blue sky. It wasn’t to be and the heavens opened as we arrived. Even the iconic colourful waterfront could not detract from the driving rain, yet as is so normal in these parts, in 20 minutes it had blown over. We were a little soggy by this time, Tobermory was also a little soggy so we decided to head for Calgary Bay, one of the best beaches on the island with a legendary wild camp location to check out. It was only 11 miles on the signposts from Tobermory, but this was 11 miles on island roads- wild single track roads that passed over high peaks and desolate moorlands as we headed wes
Immediately we arrived we knew that we would be staying, whatever the weather chose to throw at us. It was just stunning. A wide sweep of white sand and crystal blue waters in a huge expanse of a bay, surrounded by rugged headlands and backed by a swath of machair- the natural grass and dune like land that is so prevalent in these islands. The wild camp was just behind the machair, next to a stream that fed into the bay. The location was maintained and supported by the local community, with clean public toilets as a cheeky bonus. We shared the place with a couple of vans for the night, but we felt like we were alone at the ends of the earth. We walked the beach, had a fire and wine to watch the sunset and then cooked tea in a snug van as the rains came again for the night. It sounds like bliss and it was. This is why we retired early and this is why we travel to find these places. A truly happy place for us both.
The following morning, we knew the weather would be mixed, so we took advantage of the early sun for a pre-breakfast walk along the beach and out to the ruined harbour a little further around the bay. After breakfast, Jackie was most insistent on a dip in the sea, as it was “too beautiful not to”. We both needed a shower, so in true vanlife tramper fashion, we had a dip in the sea (I mean a dip- it was bloody cold in just budgies!) followed by a luxury hot outdoor shower curtesy of hose lock. The shower worked a treat and we were soon warm, dry and more importantly clean and ready for the day ahead.
The remainder of the day was then a little frustrating, with us playing dodge the rain for most of it. We did have a little park up and Nanna Nap in the afternoon- the luxury of early retirement. We then ventured further south in search of our next overnight stop. After 20 miles of single track island roads that took us over an incredible mountain pass, we came to the conclusion that there just weren’t many wild park ups on Mull- and our best option was actually where we had just come from over an hour earlier. So, after 2 hours on the road, we were back where we started, hoping that things happen for a reason…and they absolutely did.
We we not only party to an incredible array of the most magnificent rainbows above the van, we were also parked next to a french couple that were camping with 2 van cats. We watched as they took them for a walk by the lock side (without leads!) and desperately tried to coax them towards our van to say hello…or bonjour!
Another observation worth sharing was related to the white box (motorhome) that was also with us for the night- who’s owner was obsessed with washing the said white box. We had witnessed him earlier in the day collecting buckets of water from the most beautiful waterfall only to wash his van down by the roadside. Not a few hours later, he had the buckets out again and was giving it a quick rinse! If I ever get like that…
Next time- the mountains and beaches of Mull- we have an epic mountain day when climb the highest peak on the island- Ben More and spend time at the beautiful Fidden Bay before the storm hits. Check out part 2 of our adventures here.
